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Here's a post with words directly from our Helios guests. It is presented in reverse chronological order and will get updated periodically as people navigate the logistical challenges of catching up with us. For guest posts prior to 2024, please see the "2021-2023 From the Guest Book" blog.
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2024 Guest Posts
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Guest #33: Norbert Nusterer
Dates: October 3-10
Location: Pula, Rovinj, Vrsar and Novigrad (Croatia), Piran (Slovenia), Monfalcone (Italy)
Background: Dale and Norbert met at the Ross School of Business MBA program at University of Michigan. After graduate school, Norbert spent his career at Cummins Engine in Indiana. He recently retired and moved with his wife, Kari, to San Francisco. Norbert is from Austria and used to play basketball on the Austrian National Team.
What was your favorite part of your trip?
Norbert: First and foremost, having so much quality time with Christine and Dale. I was spoilt to be the only guest on the boat, so the Skull King battles were numerous and fierce! And since I had never been on a boat of this size and quality, I hugely enjoyed learning so much about the boat and the way it works - thanks to both Christine and Dale for being so patient and answering a million questions! The trips to the various coastal towns were also super enjoyable, strolling around old towns I had heard so much about over the years was terrific. Christine and I really know now how those bell towers work!
What was your least favorite part of the trip?
Norbert: Ramming my head into the fiberglass ceiling above the cockpit - oy vey ;-) Plus then there is of course the daily mini identity crisis watching Dale do his killer workouts.....
What surprised you most?
Norbert: Not withstanding the answer on question 2, I was so surprised and happy that I (6'9") could stand up straight inside the boat. What a luxury. Many thanks to all those short French boat engineers!
What was something you learned about sailing?
Norbert: So many great learnings for me! The entire anchoring topic was super interesting. First of all, I did not fully understand why you strongly prefer to anchor rather than get into the marinas for overnight stays - but now I totally get it. And then just all the considerations about picking the right anchoring spot and how to set and retrieve the anchor was a big learning. I also learned a ton from seeing Dale position the boat for the winter in the marina in Monfalcone. I was waiting for Helios to rip out the dockwall on the final few tightening maneuvers for the main lines, but in the end this thing was snug like a 18th century French corset. May those winter storms come! And then one last learning was around NEVER relying on the "let's just remember to put the drain plug back into the Dingy in the morning". Yeah right. Of course we didn't remember and darn near sank the dingy!!!!! Always better to put a physical reminder to failsafe against our bad memories.
Final comments from our last guest:
Norbert: I am going to be arrogant enough here to speak on behalf of all the 32 parties which had the privilege to stay on the boat with Chrstine and Dale over the last 3 years: What an awesome adventure you (and Megan) embarked on and how lucky we all were to be a part of it. You are wonderful and generous individuals and all of us will never forget the time we got to spend with you. And for all those guests of the past: I saw a bit of emotion there the last day when we cleaned the boat and it was clear to Dale and Christine that this was most likely the last time they would be on Helios. I heard things such as "this is the last time we put the tradewind sail up", "this is the last time we will pull up the dingy", "this is the last xyz". We all know why it was so very hard to say good bye for you both. Thank you again for your friendship and hospitality!
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Guests #32: Jessica, Andrew and Connor Child, Adam and Spencer Johnson
Dates: September 23-29
Location: Venice (Italy), Rovinj and Pula (Croatia)
Background: Our daughter, Megan, introduced us to the Child family of 9, whom so graciously agreed to care for our dog, Macca, during our sailing journeys over the past 3+ years. It was a privilege to get to know Jessica, Andrew and son, Connor, better during this journey and to meet Jessica's brother, Adam and his son, Spencer, too. Connor and Spencer enjoyed swapping their junior high routine for a week of sailing on Helios.
What was your favorite part of your trip?
Jessica: My favorite part of the trip was the adventurous nature of it all. I had no previous experience with sailing or with these parts of Europe. Each day brought new experiences, new knowledge, and new views to be had with family and friends. I loved knowing I was creating memories that would stay with me forever.
Andrew: The entire experience! Seriously. If I had to pick a favorite it would likely be the scenery and waking up each day surrounded by the beauties of the earth in a part of the world I had never been before. I also loved walking around the amazing Italian/Croatian towns, all of our meals together (those on the boat included), and getting Gelato as often as possible,
Connor: My favorite parts of sailing were riding the paddle board while being pulled behind the boat, riding the waves in the front seat of the boat with Spencer, and riding the dingy into town. I was surprised by how big and nice my room was on the boat. I feel so lucky that I got to miss school to go sailing with the Simonsons, my parents, Uncle Adam, and Spencer.
Adam: It is very difficult to pick a favorite part of the trip because I absolutely loved everything about the entire trip. I'll share a few of my favorite parts - the nightly intense, but fun Skull King battles and being there to witness Dale go 9 for 9 only to fall short in round 10 with Christine ensuring that no favoritism was allowed. The daily and sometimes twice per day searches for the best Gelato in Burano and Croatia. The character building experience of sailing in 37 knot winds sitting up top and getting splashed with sea water - perhaps appropriately described as a type 1.5 experience. The beautiful sunrise when we left Venice at dawn. Waking up in the beautiful coves off the coast of Croatia - the scenery was truly breathtaking.
Spencer: My favorite part was jumping off of the side of Helios and swimming in the Adriatic Sea.
What was your least favorite part of the trip?
Jessica: My least favorite part was dealing with motion sickness. I came well prepared and had patches, pills, and chews options. I was able to control it better than I feared, but I wished I didn't have the dizziness and lightheadedness that came with the meds. It was better than the alternative, but I marvelled that everyone else on the boat didn't need anything at all!
Andrew: Honestly, there was nothing I didn't love.
Adam: This is easy - my least favorite part was telling Dale and Christine goodbye and having our trip come to an end.
Spencer: My least favorite part was getting splashed by seawater on the day that we had heavy seas and high winds while sailing.
What surprised you most?
Jessica: The amount of ocean spray blasting us up in the flybridge surprised me the most. One of our sail days was very windy, and I couldn't believe how wet we were getting or how loud the winds were. Nature is a powerful force and we were getting to feel it first hand. We could have gone inside the boat, but we couldn't seem to tear ourselves away from feeling these forces of nature. I was also surprised at how calm and collected Dale and Christine were through it all. They were obvious pros and were at home on the sea.
Andrew: I was surprised at how calm it was at night while sleeping on the boat (thanks to Dale and Christine for finding the wind protected anchoring sites). I was envisioning the boat rocking a lot more than it did.
Adam: Never having met Dale or Christine before the trip, I was surprised by how welcome and comfortable Dale and Christine made Spencer and me feel as their guests. I was surprised (and humbled) by how bad I was at steering Helios in low winds and keeping us on course compared to the auto-pilot. I was surprised by how much research and thought Christine had to put into charting our course and selecting potential anchoring locations each day.
Spencer: I was surprised that we were able to be pulled by Helios while riding the paddleboards while we were sailing across the Adriatic Sea.
What was something you learned about sailing?
Jessica: I learned that sailing requires even more flexibility than I imagined. I also learned that anchoring is much easier than mooring, and that my family is not the only one that can play skull king night after night.
Andrew: I didn't know much about sailing before so nearly everything was new. I loved learning about directions (using degrees), wind, waves, protection from wind, anchoring, and moorings. I also learned how wet (soaked) you can get on the boat when the wind is blowing at 20+ knots, but it is not raining.
Adam: I learned that I could trust both Dale and Christine to keep us safe while sailing, and I loved soaking up from Dale and Christine everything they taught us about sailing,especially their specific instructions that kept all of us safe. I also learned that the auto-pilot is much better at keeping us on course than I was, even in low winds. I also learned why it is preferable to anchor rather than connect to a buoy each night, as we saw many other boats struggling with connecting to a buoy one night.
Spencer: I learned that there are different types of sails and that the main sail isn't always used.
Any other comments or advice for future guests?
Jessica: I am so grateful we had the opportunity to do this. What an amazing adventure we had with incredibly gracious and patient hosts. My only advice is if Dale and Christine ever ask you to watch their super cute dog, Macca, say yes. Not only is he a great dog, but it just may earn you the chance to join them on an adventure one day.
Andrew: Dale and Christine were the perfect hosts - we had such a good time with them. We loved our Skull King games, meals together, and lots of Gelato.
Adam: I can't thank Dale and Christine enough for their generosity in providing this once-in-a-lifetime experience for Spencer and me. It was such a pleasure to meet and to get to know Dale and Christine as we traveled together. Dale and Christine were the perfect hosts! They struck a perfect balance of making us feel comfortable as their guests while putting us to work and allowing us to feel like part of the crew and having a hands-on learning experience of steering the boat and setting and trimming the sails. It was evident that Dale and Christine had many guests before us and there were many lessons learned and put into practice that made this such an enjoyable experience for us. Relative to advice for future guests - if given this opportunity, I would drop anything and everything to be able to go and experience sailing with Dale and Christine. I loved learning from Dale and Christine, as they were both excellent and patient teachers, and I really appreciated how safe I felt sailing with them. I tried to soak up all of the sailing knowledge I could, and thoroughly enjoyed the sailing experience. Although Dale described himself as an eat-to-live type of person rather than a live-to-eat type of person, all of the meals and snacks prepared by Dale and Christine were so delicious, and truly made our already wonderful sailing experience even more enjoyable.
Spencer: Be sure to close your hatch when sailing in heavy seas.
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Guests #31: Gail and Kevin Keirn
Dates: September 11-20
Location: Split, Arta Vela Island, Ugljan Island, Molat Island, Losinj Island, Banjole, Porec, (Croatia) and Venice (Italy)
Background: This was Gail and Kevin's second journey on Helios, the first being the Greek Islands last year. We met the Keirn's in Singapore back in late 1999 when we were all living there as expatriates.
What was your favorite part of your trip?
Kevin: I really liked pulling up to an anchorage, going ashore, and exploring trails and towns, sometimes without even knowing their names. Then later settling in with moonlight to enjoy the cove and the lights from Helios. Also I won at Skull King three times!
Gail: Walking through the towns and experiencing the local cuisine. We had many opportunities to try something new and different.
What was your least favorite part of the trip?
Kevin: Definitely the weather! We hit a bit of an unlucky patch this time. The waves on the Adriatic crossing were challenging. Encountering four water spouts off the coast of Croatia was scary.
Gail: Losing my breakfast one morning in rough seas and evading several water spouts that formed quickly and dramatically near Helios.
What surprised you most?
Kevin: I was amazed by the water spouts, watching them form and run across the sea. There’s something about a big dark cloud above you with a funnel reaching down that really gets your attention. I never expected to see something like that.
Gail: The difference between last year’s and this year’s weather. In 2023, Greece was calm and hot. This year, the Adriatic was cool, windy, and unsettled. The differences in latitude and time of year (July versus September) had a bigger impact than expected. I’m afraid I did not pack enough cold weather gear! I think Christine and Dale got tired of seeing me in the same pair of pants!
What was something you learned about sailing?
Kevin: This time I learned that the jib is most convenient sail for moving along well with the wind. It’s easier to put up and put down than the other sails, and can quickly and easily be adjusted to optimize to maximum speed.
Gail: I learned that you are supposed to sail 90 degrees off the direction you think a water spout is moving.
Any other comments or advice for future guests?
Kevin: This trip was another life event! If you ever have the chance to do something like this, take it. It’s incredible.
Gail: Don’t have a set schedule. Relax and go with flow!
How did this sailing trip differ from your prior sailing trips?
Kevin: This time was quite a bit cooler with more rain and stormy weather. So we didn’t do as much in the water, but instead enjoyed taking the dinghy to shore and exploring Croatian villages and castles.
Gail: I got to drive the dinghy this trip when Christine, Kevin and I went ashore for groceries. Its throttle is a little sensitive! We also experienced the bora winds in Croatia, making for difficult sailing and limited use of our swim wear. Brrrrr!
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Guests #30: Jeanette Ray, Karen (Kazz) Regelman, Tim Woodland
Dates: September 2-9
Location: Dubrovnik, Miljet Island, Korcula Island, Hvar Island and Trogir (Croatia)
Background: While apartment hunting by UCLA, Christine met Jeanette at her residence. It turned out Jeanette was graduating from the business school just as Christine was entering. Coincidentally, they met again many years later when Jeanette and her family moved a few doors down from us. Tim and Kazz were high school friends of Dale's at Breck in Minneapolis. Kazz joined us from Paris. This was Tim's third sail with us.
What was your favorite part of your trip?
Jeanette: Exploring the Croatia coastline by sailboat! Experiencing Croatia from the water provided a new and unique perspective exploring its lovely islands, tranquil coves and quaint towns, some that I would not have visited on my own.
Kazz: This is tough because SO MANY highlights. But if I have to narrow it down, maybe sitting on the fly bridge talking while sailing past beautiful islands?
Tim: Simply, spending time with Skip and Christine. They have such a special, caring, and FUN relationship. I loved watching the dynamic between them, how they so frequently laugh together, tease each other, know each other, and look out for each other. I love their laughter. And, fun bonus that it was their 26th wedding anniversary during our trip.
What was your least favorite part of the trip?
Jeanette: Mentally adjusting to a "chill on the boat" state of mind which is a marked contrast to my active routine back home and packing in a lot of sightseeing when on land. I really admire how Christine and Dale have embraced that "Even Keel" state of relaxation!
Kazz: Also tough— I am hard-pressed to think of anything. Maybe initially being quite bad at Skull King?! Not having a great French baguette to go with the cheese? Honestly: when Christine didn’t feel well.
Tim: It was a little frustrating to try to cook dinner having to improvise on some ingredients. Went shopping for "Italian sausage". Eventually (after 3 stores) ended up with "Croatian sausage" and it wasn't the same. Also, forgot to download Google Translate before going to the grocery store and it was very challenging reading food labels.
What surprised you most?
Jeanette: That a majority of the time is spent motoring vs using the sails. We were very lucky to help Dale and Christine unfurl the trade wind sail which was used for about 1.5 hrs during our trip.
Kazz: How well the patch worked (without it my answer to #2 would be about debilitating seasickness! The scopolamine patch is a modern medicine miracle!). And also: that night storm. Oh. My. God. That was amazing.
Tim: Skip's calmness under pressure. We experienced a significant storm at 3.00 a.m. with 45 knot winds, while at anchor. Woke Skip up out of bed and he ran up top to the controls and started the engines about 20 meters from shore. Lot of stress, heavy wind and rain, trying to watch out for the other boats being blown around the water. Skip was focused, kept his cool, and safely managed us through it.
What was something you learned about sailing?
Jeanette: How much work Christine and Dale spend planning each day by researching locations, anchorages, winds, currents, weather forecasts, things to do, where to eat. Thank you for all the planning, shopping, preparations you did for our trip and handling that scary 3am storm so calmly !
Kazz: About the jib, mainsail, and trade wind sail — a lot about the effort it takes to furl and unfurl, and something about what kind of winds they’re useful for.
Tim: Skip let me pilot the boat into our last anchorage and set the anchor - very fun! Skip is a great teacher and calmly talked me through the steps, and all the things to be thinking about (wind, current, distance to other boats, length of chain out) and to do (look for sandy bottom, engage both engines in reverse to help set the anchor, watch RPMs). I was glad that it was a calm day, no wind and easy to "park".
Any other comments or advice for future guests?
Jeanette: Be prepared to relax and unwind physically and mentally while you sail in beautiful waters and along gorgeous coastlines!
Kazz: Shh.. it’s a secret but I cheated and brought a queen-sized fitted sheet. It worked perfectly. Other advice: no matter how little clothing you pack, bring less.
Tim: Bring a quick dry towel and download Google Translate.
How did this sailing trip differ from your prior sailing trips?
Tim: We had less wind and spent a lot more time motoring than on prior sailing trips (although we were fortunate enough to raise the trade wind sail). And, even though we weren't sailing as much, it was still so much fun and relaxing to be on the boat; there is something special being on the water.
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Guests #29: Jim and Ben Mowat
Dates: August 19-28
Location: Bari (Italy), Budva, Kotor, Morinj, Tivat and Herceg Novi (Montenegro)
Background: Jim and Christine met in San Diego around 35 years ago when they were both working as rocket scientists at General Dynamics Space Systems. Jim is a systems engineer now at a satellite company and lives with his wife, Julie, in Colorado. While we missed having Julie on board, it was wonderful to meet their son, Ben, who currently works for a non-profit environmental start-up in Boston.
What was your favorite part of your trip?
Jim: I really enjoyed the real sense of adventure that is available--Christine and Dale let us choose if we wanted to stay put for the day, move to a new place, climb something high or whatever else might be available in that location...and of course, the weather may cooperate, or it might not. Plus, I really liked that we did some real sailing on the overnight sail from Bari to Budva. I learned so much about the sailing life while spending these ~10 days on the boat. I also really enjoyed truly being a part of the crew and making a useful contribution where I could to the sailing (or motoring) effort. Also, I would be remiss if I didn't mention just being able to have time in various interesting parts of Montenegro. What a great country!
Ben: Going into the trip nearly completely blind, having never been on a sailboat before I didn't know what would stand out to me. But I think the memories that will stick with me the longest are relaxing on the boat with the most incredible views in every direction. After a couple of days, I had trouble knowing what day of the week it was, or even thinking about my general worries in life. That being said, I think my favorite part was eating incredible fruit, using the one word of Montenegrin I googled, and exploring the little coastal towns we stopped by.
What was your least favorite part of the trip?
Jim: I am pretty zen wrt things that are not pleasant--it is all part of the experience that I learn from and appreciate--so I really don't have any complaints. However, in the spirit of answering the question; feeling pretty queasy during the first part of the overnight sail and the taste of the water are the two things that stand out to me as not my favorite. For the water taste, Christine had cut up some limes and they made a big difference for improving the taste of the water.
Ben: I really have nothing to complain about. I was worried about before the trip about sea sickness, and while I did get seasick early into our Adriatic crossing, I quickly felt better and even became comfortable walking, cooking, and living
What surprised you most?
Jim: This is a hard one to answer--there are so many little things. One thing that I did not expect is that many places do not have places for a dinghy to tie up to. So when one wants to head to shore from an anchorage, it can still be a bit tricky to find an acceptable spot. Dale and Christine did a great job of figuring it out every time stress free, but this surprised me that towns don't have plenty of space. Additionally, there is a lot of preplanning involved wrt having to look into where an acceptable anchorage is located, whether one can get to it and find space or if bigger provisions are necessary, so it might be time to dock. Plus, one needs to find a location for passport control to stamp in or out. Christine and Dale made it look pretty easy, but quite a bit of time can be spent working out necessary details. The other thing that surprised me is just how much Pirate Juanita likes me--I think that she really wanted me to win Skull King!
Ben: Vacation-wise, when thinking about the trip while I understood that I'd be on a boat, I thought primarily about the cities and locations we'd be going to. When I've traveled in the past, although I see myself as easygoing, I generally like making plans for the day, and exploring as much of a city as possible. On the boat, you can explore the city, but you can also swim, relax, play cards, and enjoy the time on the boat, not just using it as transportation.
What was something you learned about sailing?
Jim: Having only a very modest bit of sailing in my life (sailing a 13 foot Flying Junior for years), there were SO many things. The one thing that I really didn"t grasp before was the complexity of put up the mainsail vs the simplicity of flying the jib. I had no idea!
Ben: Everything about sailing. Learning sailing terms, knots, and so many conventions I had never heard had a real learning curve. During the first hour on the boat, we had a storm come that pushed the boat dangerously into the dock, with the help of Dale and Christine's hard work and knowledge and a gaggle of Italians, we were able to make sure the boat was currently secured. But I found myself woefully inept in even the most basic elements of sailing. I'm still not convinced it wasn't all a big ploy to test my Dad (Jim) and myself and to demonstrate how much skill is needed. While underway, I learned about what to look for to correctly use the jib, the mainsail, and even skills like how to use an electric boat winch.
Any other comments or advice for future guests?
Jim: Do it! soak it all in when you come onboard the Helios. Christine and Dale were such amazing hosts, and Ben and I really didn't have any idea of what to expect (which made it even more fun!). They are really casual about everything and you are quickly welcomed as useful crew. I cannot stress enough how "at home" we were made to feel. The time on Helios was simply fantastic--so I hope that if you are reading this, that you can have the opportunity!! (and if you can't, then at least try to check on Montenegro and Dubrovnik if you can)
Ben: Enjoy the boat, take lots of photos, and study up on the rules of Skull King before arriving.
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Guests #28: Lori Schonebaum, Laurie Kane and Glenn Murphy
Dates: July 4-9
Location: Milos, Elafonisos, Diros, Kardamyli, Kalamata (Greece)
Background: Lori, Laurie and Christine were sorority sisters and college room mates at the University of Illinois. Laurie and Glenn are newlyweds and this journey gave us an excellent opportunity to get to know Glenn better. We were impressed how well Glenn could recite many of our sorority songs.
What was your favorite part of your trip?
Lori: I am so blessed that this was my second trip aboard Helios. Like last time, it’s hard to pick a favorite though. Of course, one of the best things about the trip was spending time with my ‘old’ college roomies, Chris and Laurie. I loved that there were five days when I never wore shoes. This was my first night sail. It was eerily fantastic…the stars are amazing, while the waves against the boat were so loud you’d think the boat was coming apart. The seas were soooo calm and the most beautiful blue. The scenery was incredible…and so different at every anchorage. I loved swimming in the caves. Fortunately, Dale’s sister Kari was on board with us. It was sure nice to have someone (besides Chris and Dale) who knew how to sail, tie knots, do a night watch, etc, etc, etc. As you can tell, everything was my favorite!
Laurie: I had many favorite parts during my time on Helios. My highlights reel include: (1) keeping Christine company on the 9:00-12:00 a.m. shift of a night sail, where I learned so much about the technical and physical ways to navigate Helios and marveled in a nighttime sky laden with bright stars; (2) swimming in three different turquoise coves, each with beautifully-clear water but different beaches and rock formations; and (3) playing Skull King, Rummikub, Five Crowns, and Dutch Blitz with my college roomies!
What was your least favorite part of the trip?
Lori: There is no least favorite. How can anything aboard an amazing boat in the Greek Isles be bad??? Ok, so my least favorite part of the trip was getting all the way back to Chicago O’Hare and having my connecting flight home delayed 4 times…and finally—at 11pm—rescheduled for 5 am the following morning.
Laurie: My least favorite part was probably the heat, although the temperatures while sailing the islands were much lower than in our time in Athens.
What surprised you most?
Lori: I’m surprised I got asked back after proving myself a totally useless sailor in the Caribbean. I’m still surprised at how spacious Helios is. Six adults and room to spare. I was surprised at how ‘barren’ much of the islands are…and how blue and clear the water is.
Laurie: I was surprised by how much downtime there was to read, relax, chat, and play games. I finished two great books! I was also surprised by how ingeniously everything is constructed on Helios to maximize storage space and minimize movement of objects.
What was something you learned about sailing?
Lori: Learned or retained? While I’m a terrible sailor with terrible sea legs, I tried. During our night sail, I stayed up on the bridge with Dale….for an hour. :-). He was awesome. He tried to tell be about all the instruments. He told me the difference between estimated and actual wind speed, wind direction, where you set your course vs where you want to go, how to identify boats in the distance, etc. He’d ask me questions. I’d answer. He gave me credit for the most creative answers.
Laurie: I mostly learned that sailing and operating a large catamaran is very complicated! Christine and Dale show really impressive expertise and teamwork in managing all the technical and mechanical components in conjunction with environmental factors.
Any other comments or advice for future guests?
Lori: Buy the boat!!! (I’m just sad there won't be many future guests. If something changes, my best advice would be to take Chris and Dale up on the invitation. It’s an experience not to be missed.)
Laurie: Hang on to your hat while sailing! Unfortunately, the sea claimed mine on day one. I was glad we wore prescription Scopolamine patches. We didn't experience any seasickness on board.
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Guests #27: Kari Simonson
Dates: June 21 - July 10, 2024
Location: Kos, Astypalaios, Ios, Kimolos, Milos, Elafonisos, Diros, Kardamyli, and Kalamata (Greece)
Background: Dale's younger sister, Kari, joined us for her fourth trip on Helios and holds the record for the most tenured guest (2 months), including her stint sailing Helios across the Atlantic (West to East). Kari earned her keep being the only guest to venture into the deep bellows of Helios to clean the bilge and sump pump and taking overnight sail shifts. Thanks Kari!!!
What was your favorite part of your trip?
Christine outdid herself this year on picking really interesting anchorages! It was hard to decide which was the best: the adorable town and castle at Astypalaia; the cute little cave boathouses at Kimolos; the arches and caves we could swim and paddle board through at Kleftiko on Milos; or the amazing cave tour at Dirou on the Peloponnesian Peninsula. They all were unique and amazing!
I also enjoyed my last night watch on Helios when Skip let me take 3rd watch, which was way easier than the overnight sail when I took 2nd watch - what was I thinking that time? Seeing the amazing stars with no moon or city lights and watching the sun rise over the ocean one last time are memories I will cherish forever.
Finally, I had a challenging 3 hour solo hike to the top of a large hill (can I say “mountain”?) from the beach at Kleftiko. It was an incredible view at the top and was probably my favorite adventure from Helios!
What was your least favorite part of the trip?
Cleaning the sump and bilge on my last day… you can read all about it in my “Behind the Scenes on Helios” blog post if you want the gory details.
Also, cleaning and staging Helios for the sale photos made me sad because it really sank in that Skip and Christine are serious about selling her this time and that this was my last stay.
What were some of the biggest differences between this trip and the first trip you took on Helios?
Despite being on the boat for 3 weeks instead of 2 weeks like last year, we actually visited fewer locations. We spent extra nights at Kos trying to repair the anchor winch, had to hunker down for multiple nights at Kimolos to ride out the meltemi winds, and spent many days on Milos due to guests' schedules.
What surprised you the most?
The meltemi winds were impressive! There really isn’t much noticeable weather in Greece, other than whether it’s going to be kinda hot or really hot. But the meltemis were so powerful they stirred up lots of dust and kept everyone other than the ferries staying in one place for a couple of days. Even sheltered by an island, we got wind readings of over 42 knots, so I can’t imagine how windy it was on the open water!
What was something you learned about sailing this time?
I learned how much I forget about sailing between every Helios trip! It’s embarrassing, really. The low point was when I had to wake up Skip during an overnight sail because I thought the jib was jammed. It turns out I just hadn’t opened the clutch on the jib sheet all the way. I’m blaming sleep deprivation.
Any other comments or advice for future guests?
Clean up your hair! Stand on the sugar scoop to brush it over the back of the boat, tie it back if it’s long, wear headbands, pick it up if you see it on the floor or deck, etc. It makes cleaning the boat, both exterior and interior, much easier.
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Guests #26: Joanne, Joe, Ian and Max Myrtetus
Dates: June 23-July 1
Location: Kos, Astypalaia, Ios, Kimolos and Milos, Greece
Background: While living in Hong Kong, we lived in the same high rise as the Myrtetus family at The Repulse Bay. Christine and Joanne spent a lot of time together with a close group of friends exploring everything Hong Kong had to offer along with taking Mandarin classes together. The Myrtetus family currently reside in London. Max just finished his first year at UCSD and Ian is living in San Francisco.
What was your favorite part of the trip?
Joanne: What a dream come true to sail the Greek Isles and spend quality time with Christine, Dale and Kari! We’d originally planned to join their 2023 voyage from Mallorca to Gibraltar, but Schengen stay restrictions scuppered those plans. So, it was Greece in 2024 or bust!
The sum of its parts together made the whole journey wonderful. High on my wish list when talking to Christine were…visiting scenic coves with clear turquoise water, snorkeling with colorful fish, exploring authentic white washed villages, and getting hands on sailing experiences.
Astypalea, a tiny butterfly shaped island in the Dodecanese, ticked all the boxes. Getting there was an adventure in itself as the anchor winch (windlass) broke in Kos requiring a call to Mr Spiros and his mechanic in Kos and a delay, which meant an overnight sail to Astypalea to make up for lost time. Christine and I did the 9:00pm to midnight shift together. Highlight: seeing a huge blood orange/potato moon over the pitch black sea.
Although no one really slept that night, in the morning we eventually arose to a picturesque cove, calm waters, and view of a gorgeous white & blue village and castle on the nearby hilltops.
The walk to up to the town included iconic windmills, incredible views, a warren of narrow paths lined with beautiful whitewashed homes accented with fuchsia bougainvillea, cafes and shops with local handmade treats and crafts items. The ruined castle turned out to be a fortress where homes were built into the walls — an ideal location for a Zara Home photoshoot.
Astypalea was also where I finally SUP’d on the SUP!
Joe: Once we set sail to that day’s destination, I spent time on the sailing deck checking out the seas and the islands we passed. It was very relaxing. There was plenty of time to chat, read my book, have some lunch and take naps (in that order).
Ian: My favorite part of the trip were the chill days. Napping in the boat. Walking around shore. It was really nice to have nothing to do other than helping with boat duties, which was fun.
Max: Laying out in the front cushions of the boat during twilight.
What was your least favorite part of the trip?
Joanne: Nothing really. Short/2 min showers and letting yellow mellow, maybe? Even the unfortunate bits had a bright side. Windlass repair downtime meant time to efoil, ride bikes and explore town. Meltemi winds meant hunkering down in a protected cove for a day (recorded highest windspeed about 42.5 knots) and a fun roller coaster ride over big waves to Milos. Even getting drenched by a rogue wave from starboard side to the flybridge made for a great adventure.
Joe: Probably needing to use the bathroom while under sail in rough seas. Thankfully it wasn’t often. Plan ahead if you can.
Ian: The heat and seasickness.
Max: Throwing up twice.
What surprised you most?
Joanne: I’m not a games person at all, so I was really dreading having to learn a bunch of rules to play Skull King. I watched Christine, Joe, Ian & Max play the first night, then played the second night with a poor -20 result, but by some fluke won the third night with terrible cards and betting zero for 7/10 hands…much to everyone’s dismay. A total turnaround as I’m a convert now and may even buy a deck for the family to play at the holidays.
Joe: The dual hull catamaran has lots of common areas to be social to sit and chat with others or to just sit by yourself quietly. I found the sailing deck and the forward deck areas the best while moored in the island coves.
Ian: It surprised me how much time we had to relax how comfortable the boat actually was.
Max: There was almost always cell reception on the boat.
What was something you learned about sailing?
Joanne: I came aboard Helios with zero knowledge of sailing, other than a quick Google search the night before arrival to know the bow vs stern, port vs starboard, and cat vs single hull. Some on-site learnings:
A. The Genoa/Jib sail is used most and needs to be reefed/pulled in to 75% capacity when the wind is over 26 knots to avoid tearing the sail.
B. When the main sail is up and conditions provide smooth sailing the cat was moving at about 8.5-9 knots with no engine.
B. Tacking is fun but takes more time zigzagging vs taking a straight line with the help of the motor to get to where we need to be. Adjusting our direction a degree or two and letting out or taking in the sails to fine tune and catch the wind is like a game with boat speed as the way you gain points.
C. The current and wind direction are not the same. Wind speed and direction are not anywhere near as consistent as I’d imagined. So unlike Helios with auto-pilot and a motor (which we used 80% of the time), I now appreciate how sailors/explorers of the past had to give the sails constant attention and make adjustments.
D. Dale & Christine know their stuff! From plotting the best course and anchorages, finding safe harbors through the high Meltemi winds, troubleshooting bilge pumps and windlass breakdowns…It’s a ton of prep work and constant adjustments. They probably need a vacation from their vacation after looking after guests coming/going, the latest conditions, safety, and keeping the cat ship shape.
Joe: The are so many measurement device readings and weather factors (wind speed, wind direction, weather forecasts and wave/swell heights and potential squalls) that need to be considered in deciding when/or if to set the sails. All these factors then need to be continuously re-evaluated during the journey. There are plenty of navigation screens to help see the changing conditions.
Ian: How a sail works going against the wind.
Max: You should move the boat above the anchor so that it places less stress on the anchor and windlass when retracting it because the motor driving force cancels out the horizontal forces of the wind and current and you only need to work against the weight of anchor and chain to pull it out.
Any other comments or advice for future guests:
Joanne: Packing - I did a lot of research on travel backpacks as I didn’t want to hurt my back dragging a big duffel around, plus Europe has lots of cobblestone streets/uneven pavement. I brought a 70L Osprey Fairview backpack which is a smaller 20L backpack that attaches to a larger 50L backpack. Turns out I didn’t wear 1/3 of what I’d brought, eg 3 dresses I never wore as it was too awkward when you climb in/out of the dinghy or if the wind gusts. Disclosure, we did laundry in Kos while the windlass winch was being repaired. The 42L Osprey Transporter would have been perfect. For footwear, just a pair of Keen sandals and some flip flops will probably suffice. Packing cubes with an extra compression zipper and labels (socks, underwear, jackets, tops, wet clothes) are great too, available on Amazon. Sunglasses and a hat with a strap are essential.
Seasickness - Preemptive homeopathic seasick patches and Gin Gin candies did the trick when seas got rough. Stay up top if you can. Sensitivity seems to dissipate as the days progress.
Try everything so you have no regrets. Mastic (like ouzo but better like gin), mastic ice cream, mastic almond cookies, games, overnight shifts, sailing in Meltemi/high wind conditions, SUP, instapot recipes, cooking, cleaning, etc.
Joe: Christine and Dale are great hosts and they’re always happy to answer even the simplest of questions. Have an open mind with your expectations. Every day on the boat was a pleasant adventure.
Ian: Don’t stack dirty plates so they’re easier to clean. Don’t play Juanita in Skull King thinking she’s the Tigress. Do take naps on the fly bridge if the wind is nice.
Max: Go to the flybridge if you feel sick.
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Guests #25: Jeff and Sam Faiola
Dates: June 16-22
Location: Gocek and Bozburun, Turkiye to Symi and Kos, Greece
Background: We met the Faiola family around 14 years ago while living in Hong Kong and have been on their boat a number of times. Megan and their daughter, Izzy were close friends in Hong Kong and swam together. Jeff is still based out of Hong Kong for work and Sam just graduated high school in Hawaii and will be attending Bates College this fall. Jeff expertly skippered Helios from Turkiye to Greece!
What was your favorite part of the trip?
Jeff: I loved everything! Pulling into gorgeous Bozburun Bay just as the muezzin was beginning the late afternoon adhan, or call to prayer, was very special.
Sam: My favorite part of the trip was being able to anchor overnight in the small and private Philips Cove. The water was pristine, making it the perfect place for a paddle and a swim.
What was your least favorite part of the trip?
Jeff: My least favorite part was having to get off Helios after just one week. I could do this for a long time.
Sam: My least favorite part was the dreaded end of the trip cleaning session. While my dad did most of the hard work, the stress of being blog shamed with a poor cleaning grade was heavy.
What surprised you most?
Jeff: I was surprised by how easily and quickly I was able to detox from life on land.
Sam: I was surprised by the lack of favorable wind and how reliant we had to be on the engine for a good part of our journey. The wind we did find seemed to always be in the no-go zone. Fortunately we were able to put up the sails our last two days. I had prepared myself for rough seas, strong winds, and blazing heat but we luckily avoided some of these conditions.
What was something you learned about sailing?
Jeff: For most of our trip the winds were not favorable and thus I did not experience as much actual sailing as I had hoped to. However, I learned vessel operating skills such as "Med Mooring" which involves securing stern lines to points on shore. I also learned how to better use the AIS (Auto Identification System) for navigation.
Sam: While I wasn’t able to experience much hands-on sailing due to the winds, I was able to improve my seamanship skills. I was able to practice anchoring, docking, tying knots, and even helming. Besides actual sailing, I was taught boat etiquette, how to conserve water, keep my quarters clean, and how to be an expert dish washer. And, most importantly, that the captain is king and all crew must follow his instructions/orders.
Any other comments or advice for future guests:
Jeff: Bring a willingness to embrace a variety of situations you may encounter on board. You will need to be comfortable in taking orders for tasks that unless you have sailing experience will be completely new to you. On a lighter note, beware the metamorphosis Christine undergoes when competition is involved be it musical chairs or Skull King. She can be ferocious.
Sam: Bring patience and an open mind. Sailing days can be long. Bring a book. Bring your favorite game. Helios does have a large collection of games that I was told continues to grow. You will likely find yourself playing Skull King and Rummykub. And you will likely lose to your hosts. Enjoy the opportunity that a private boat offers: access to secluded waters and a front row seat to some of the most stunning scenery on the planet.
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Guests #24: Sharon, Steve and Lexi Jaster
Dates: June 2-8
Location: Bodrum, Datca, Marmaris, Gocek Turkiye
Background: Sharon, Christine's sister, joined us for her third time aboard and Steve and Lexi's second time aboard Helios. It has been nice having different combinations of the Jaster family join us over the last 3 years.
What was your favorite part of the trip?
Steve: I liked seeing the smaller towns & marinas along the southern coast of Turkey. It gives you a good sense how people live in those areas.
Sharon: I loved the smooth sailing, wandering around the quaint towns along the Turkish coast, and spending time with my big sister! It was amazing to experience total relaxation and to actually get to read three books! My favorite moment was when we were greeted at the dock in Gocek by five friendly stray dogs who were apparently bidding us farewell as we got into our Uber
Lexi: My favorite part of the trip was getting to walk around all the little coastal towns. a lot of those places are probably places i wouldn’t get to see otherwise (like the ruins in Knidos, walking around Marmaris, etc) so it was cool to get a little time every day to see the towns.
What was your least favorite part of the trip?
Steve: The "hot" winds that showed up on Wednesday. I was surprised that it was suddenly 105 degrees after being in the mid-80s before that. But diving into the cool water felt great when we anchored.
Sharon: The mosquitoes.
Lexi: My least favorite was all the flies that were biting us, but i was able to swat a lot of them at least (but not until after they already bit me!)
What surprised you most?
Steve: The amount of technology on the boat still amazes me. They almost sail themselves although I know that you put a lot of work into it but you make it look easy.
Sharon: I was surprised by the number of stray cats and dogs that we saw EVERYWHERE! And they all looked clean and well-fed!
Lexi: I was most surprised by the boat that was on fire in the middle of the water on our way to Goçek; I have never seen something like that before
What was something you learned about sailing?
Steve: Dale went over True Wind Speed (TWS), Apparent Wind Speed (AWS), True Wind Direction (TWD) & Apparent Wind Direction (AWD) while teaching me some of the basics of sailing one morning.
Sharon: This was my third time on Helios and I still have not learned anything. I am pretty sure that I am the least helpful passenger ever to board Helios! Luckily I am Christine's sister so I keep getting invited back anyway.
Lexi: I learned that the stern line definitely does cause problems when it gets under the boat
Any other comments or advice for future guests:
Steve: Don't let your future guests allow the tether line to get wrapped around the propeller! Helios is an awesome sailboat & Christine & Dale are great hosts.
Sharon: Enjoy! Christine and Dale are fantastic hosts and it is truly a unique and amazing experience to get to discover smaller towns/ports that you might not otherwise have a chance to visit. Also - be sure to do a thorough job cleaning your drain before you leave because Christine hands out grades and photographs any mess that you leave behind... [Editor's note: This is the first time I have had to issue a report card, but maybe it should have been a fine : ) ]. And for Pete's sake - follow the rules that Dale and Christine provide at the beginning of the trip!!!
Lexi: Bug spray in addition to sunscreen might be good to bring!
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Guests #23: Jonno Woutat and Sarah (Sass) Libertus
Dates: May 24-May 31
Location: Didim, Yalikavak & Bodrum, Turkiye
Background: Jonno was one of the brave souls who sailed Helios across the Atlantic from the Canary islands to Grenada (Caribbean) in 2021. This time, Jonno brought his lovely wife, Sass with him. We met them through Dale's sister, Kari, and husband, Dan. They joined us the day after we arrived on our boat to help us Helios back in commission after she sat in dry dock for 8 months. They were the perfect couple to assist us as Jonno is a trained shipwright and Sass loves doing chores and learning new things. We were so very grateful for their positive energy, help and expertise.
What was your favorite part of the trip?
Sass: My favorite part of the trip was helping set up Helios after it had been in storage. It was fun learning about the systems and everything that Skip and Christine have to go through to get the boat ready.
Jonno: Having my wife with me on the boat was the best part of the trip for me. She had so many questions about what it was like being part of the Arc Plus Rally and my story telling just couldn’t do the experience justice so thanks again for the invitation to join you both in the Mediterranean.
What was your least favorite part of the trip?
Sass: My least favorite part of the trip was trying to navigate how to get into towns in a dinghy. I had no idea that it would be difficult to land a dinghy into a town that was set up for anchoring your sailboat. I am seriously considering setting up a “free parking for all the dinghys” committee.
Jonno: Least fun, not winning a single game of Skull King. I think those cards are marked.
What surprised you most?
Sass: I was surprised by how spacious Helios is. I also loved all the different views of the water from each space.
Jonno: it’s estimated that there are only around 600 Mediterranean monk seals left in the world so seeing one jump onto the back of the neighboring boat in the Didim marina and try to make a bed for the night was a wonderful surprise.
What was something you learned about sailing?
Sass: I learned so much about sailing a large catamaran from Skip and Christine. I had sailed a tiny tiny sailboat on lakes and had no idea of all the information that needed to be collected for sailing a large boat on the sea. My last day on the boat, they let me take the helm. It was terrifying as I felt like I was going to run into every boat that was on the water. They taught me to understand that the sea is vast and distances are much farther than I think that they should be and how to read all the systems. It was a blast.
Jonno: I was so surprised to learn that with all the hassle and extra hands needed to put up the mainsail you might only get an extra knot of speed over what you were getting with just the jib.
Any other comments or advice for future guests:
Sass: Take advantage of swimming around the beautiful waters. Being on the boat gives you access to waters that you cannot have if you are traveling on land. Swimming in the deserted bay with herds of goats: that was magical. Also remember that Skip and Christine like to play all their Skull King power cards at the very end.
Jonno: To future guests aboard Helios, the flybridge is a wonderful place to take a nap, and bring your own Skull King deck.
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